Cusco and the Sacred Valley

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We spent almost two weeks visiting the area around Cusco learning about the Incas and exploring some of what remains from their period of reign during 1450 to 1550. One of the largest and most advanced civilizations at the time the Incas developed advanced governance, architecture, agriculture and transportation systems before being over taken during the the Spanish conquests. There is much to do around the Plaza de Armas in Cusco and the surrounding Sacred Valley

Cusco is a lively city. We were there for the Corpus Christi festival during which 18 saints are paraded around the city over a three day period. The atmosphere was very festive with people in costumes and traditional dress while live music and partying errupted on every street corner.

While Machu Picchu is the most famous of ruins, from Cusco there are many other places to see as well. Sacsahuaman sits on the hill overlooking Cusco and is the site of the last battle for Cusco between the Incas and Spanish conquistadors before the Incas retreated into the mountains. The foundation of the giant fortress is impressive with the fascinating examples of Inca stone work. Exactly how the Incas worked with the giant 20 ton stones and fitted them with such precision remains a mystery.

The stones are fit so well the Incas didn't need cement.

At the southern end of the Sacred Valley is Pisac. With it's extensive terracing it is believed the Incas used the site for agricultural research.

At the northern end of the Sacred Valley sits Ollantaytambo. The superior stone work and temples suggest it was a palace for an Inca Emperor. Later it was used as a defensive fort when the Incas lost Sacsahuaman.

The Sun Temple of Ollantaytambo which faces the rising sun.

We headed from Ollantaytambo into the mountains for our trek to Machu Pichhu. There were great views back to Mt. Veronica on our first day.

On our first day we also passed the ruins of Cusichaca, the last outpost in the Sacred Valley before one heads up into the mountains or down into the jungle. Large enough to support 2000 people the site is believed to have been an Inca agricultural distribution centers.

Our first camp on the Inca trail. We used an agency, now mandatory given all the visitors, and travelled with 14 others including our friends Mike and Tina from Washington, DC who we met up with in Cusco.

Our guide, Kenny on the left and the rest of the group at our tea break on day 2.

Mike, Tina, Brian & Sira (who is chewing coca leaves to supress a headache from altitude) on day 2 at the top of Dead Womans Pass, the highest point on the trek.

From our camp on day 2 we had a great view of the sunset over the jungle.

Day 3 was an exciting trek through the cloud forest where we passed by the Sayac Marka ruins.

At the end of day three we had our first glimpse of Machu Pichhu

Still feeling good on day 3.

Another great sunset, day 3.

We had an early start on day 4 to catch the sun rising on Machu Pichhu. It was an exhilarating site as we passed through the sun gate.

Our breakfast spot.

One of the few remaining local residents of Machu Pichhu.

Without any written history from the Incas, the exact use of Machu Pichhu remains a mystery. Theories range from extraterretrial to religious. Most likely it was a vacation spot for ruling Incas and later became a defensive outpost as the Spanish pushed the Incas further into the Sacred Valley. It is not the last outpost or lost city that it is sometimes described as. These titles more appropriately belong to Vilcabamba which is another 40 miles past Machu Pichhu and is rarely visited.

 

The Wynu Pichhu peak sits behind Machu Pichhu.

The Sacred Tomb is one of the finest examples of Inca stone work in which masonry and natural edifices are fused together.

 

The top of the tomb.

The Sun Temple perfectly aligned with the rising sun on the summer solstice.

The book The White Rock by Hugh Thomson is an excellent read as well as a great summary of the history of the Incas and the exploration of their ruins. If you want to know more about the Incas or are planning to visit Peru, definitely read this book.

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